In recent years, lip oils have become more popular among beauty consumers. Similar to lip gloss, the oils give the lips a glossy appearance, but they also double as skincare products that are designed to keep lips hydrated.
“When they’re doing the right thing, lip oils promote shine and hydration, and they can even promote plumping of the lips as well,” says Dr. Rebecca Small, clinical professor at University of California, San Francisco.
But ingredients matter, Small says. “Patients do sometimes report increased pigmentation on their lips as a result of using these products.”
A popular lip oil began trending on TikTok with photos of women showing their lips before and after using the product consistently. The social media users, mainly women of color, experienced intense hyperpigmentation that they allege is as a result of adding the lip oil to their skincare routine.
Here’s why certain lip oils may be causing hyperpigmentation, and what to consider when choosing a lip oil product.
‘You will magnify UV exposure with a lip oil’ if it doesn’t have SPF in it
Understanding the anatomy of lips is an important first step to getting a clear picture of why certain lip oils may cause hyperpigmentation, Small says.
The skin on the lips is much thinner than the skin on your face, which makes it more susceptible to dehydration and sun damage, she explains. “It does not have the same type of UV defense that the rest of our skin has, and it’s prone to cancers [and] hyperpigmentation.”
A skin condition that people may be experiencing is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which is when inflammation of the skin leads to increased production of melanin and the darkening of certain areas on the body, Small says.
“If you are using a product that, for example, doesn’t have UV protection, you will magnify UV exposure with a lip oil. So if it doesn’t have SPF in it, you’re more prone to PIH,” she says.
“And if there are ingredients in the product that are like plumping ingredients, sometimes those plumping ingredients can be irritants.”
Another possibility is that people are developing dermatitis, which is very common after using products that have fragrances in them. “Dermatitis that’s irritant related or allergy related causes your lips or other areas of your body to be red, scaly [and] uncomfortable,” Small says.
It’s important to see a medical professional if your lips are in pain, swelling excessively, extremely red or much darker than usual, cracked or bleeding, she notes. And you should immediately stop using any product that you think are causing these symptoms.
What to consider when choosing a lip oil
Not all lip oils will have the same effects on your lips, and some can even lead to better skin health.
“A little tip for people [is] to look and see what the ingredients are, rather than looking just at brand names. Really looking at the ingredients,” Small says.
“I would say the safest choice for lip oil that hydrates and really nourishes your lips has a broad spectrum SPF in it, especially when you’re outdoors.”
Here are some of the recommendations she shared for what to seek out, and avoid, in lip oils you use.
Do’s
- Broad-spectrum SPF
- Linoleic acids like evening primrose oil and grapeseed oil
- Squalane
- Glycerin
- Hyaluronic acid
Don’t’s
- Fragrances like peppermint, cinnamon, citrus or lavender
- Oleic acids like argan oil and olive oil
“I think lip oils can be fantastic if they have the right ingredients,” Small says. “Anything without fragrances is what you want to look for in lip products. And you can go to a more traditional lip balm. Lip balms are thicker. They are wax-based and more protective.”
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